Go confidently in the direction of your dreams. Live the life you have imagined.

Henry David Thoreau

Hartwick Pines–among the tall trees

Monday June 2, 2014
Hartwick Pines State Park
Grayling, Michigan

 

 

We make another early departure.

 

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This is becoming a great habit.  It enables us to zip our way up M-23 and I-75 for 233 miles.  This is amazing for folks who normally do 90 or 150 miles a move.  200 miles at the very most.

No one is around is on the interstate which is probably why the road is mostly in such good shape as we drive further north into green tree country.  Trees, trees, nothing but trees.  OH MY!!

I 75 brings us right to the doorway of Hartwick Pines State Park.  No washboard back entrance here.

 

The park feels like I think Michigan should feel, dark and heavily treed. 

 

TALL trees here.  No one is at the ranger booth but our name is on a paper taped to the window as due to arrive today.  So we drive into the campground, find our site and back in.  Like all the sites, it is really lovely. nicely separated on both sides from the adjacent sites.  No one behind us.  In front of us is a pull through site with no one in it when we arrive.  There are less than half a dozen other campers in this 100 site campground.   We took on water before we came to the site as the park has individual electric, no individual water and a dump station.   Here again we have award winning bathrooms and showers.

 

 

The weather is perfect - breezy, warm. 

We get set up, have a bite of lunch and head out for the visitor’s center where we get a map, find several trails we’d like to hike  and discover there is a Kirtland’s warbler walk tomorrow at 7am.

 

We’ve come here to visit the old growth White Pine, Red Pine and Jack Pine forests.  These are all that remains in lower Michigan of the vast forest that once covered all of Michigan until it was logged to extinction in the 1800’s and early 1900’s.   In 1927 the current logging company withdrew some sections of this area from logging due to a drop in the price for timber.  One of the heirs of the owners donated that land and 8000 acres in cut over land to the State of Michigan as a memorial to the logging industry.   In 1934-35 the CCC built a logging museum here  It is located in two replica logging camp buildings and contains outdoor exhibits of logging equipment including a steam powered sawmill operated during the summer for special events.

I am definitely not here to see the museum although I am sure we will.  Logging is not high on my list of approved careers.  I am here to see the trees. Really TALL trees, to hike the trails among them.  To look up and up and up to see their tops.   I am also here to hopefully see the Kirtland’s warbler one of the most endangered of birds.

 

 This afternoon we hike the white pine trail just behind the visitor center.

 

 

Just stepping onto this trail through the dark silent woods has a calming effect.  I want to walk slowly and reverently.  Unfortunately the mosquitoes find dining on me much easier when I’m gong at that pace.  So I have to hike this trail much faster than I would like.  And I won’t be able to do one of my very favorite things, lie down on the ground and just stare up at the tops of these tall trees to the sky.

Note to self: ask the ranger for the approximate dates of mosquito season here for possible return.

Like the rest of the park, some of this trail goes through “young” mixed forest approximately 120 years old dating from the end of the logging here. 

 

 

 

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The trail is just over a mile long and is mostly paved so that the handicapped too can experience this wonder.  It also protects the forest floor from compaction which is deadly to the shallow roots of these tall trees.

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We move into the old growth area on the trail.

 

 

Further along the trail we come to the old growth area where the trees are 300-400 years old.  They are majestic.  White pines, red pines and eastern hemlock.  The understory is totally shady.  There are large logs on the forest floor.  None of these are removed but are left to decay in the natural way of nature’s cycle.   The height, the size and the spaces between the trees tells us this is an old growth forest. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 I step back to try to give a feeling for the height of this tree.

Only the bottom 1/3 of the trunk is visible in this picture..  It reaches up into the sky. I can hardly tilt my head back far enough to see it.

 

There is really nothing like walking here. Neither of us says a word unless to marvel at this beauty. And at the loss.

Imagine the size of this giant at the time of its loss.  What would it look like today..

 

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The trail takes us by the most famous tree at Hartwick pines, the Monarch.

 

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This tree was the largest and oldest of the pines.  Generations of Michigan families have had their pictures taken here.  But in 1992 a wind storm took out the Monarch’s crown.  It died 4 years later.  A snag is all that remains of this former giant once 155 feet tall with a circumference of 12 feet.  it was about 325 years old when it died.   Not being from Michigan, I was never fortunate enough to make its acquaintance during life.  But I honor it and all the trees surrounding it saved from the logging era so that I can marvel at their age and beauty.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We have had quite enough of the mosquitoes.

 

It is now early evening, THE worst time for mosquitoes, when they chase us out of the Old Growth area and on down the trail.  As we near the finish, we take shelter in the Chapel, a beautiful log building for contemplation and meditation among these wonderful trees.  The glass window is open to the forest beyond.  We stay a while in the chapel, away from our energetic pursuers.

 

 

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Once outside again, we hurry past the Logging Museum and on to the car.

Too many mosquitoes to stop today.  David wants to return another day.  I suppose I will although a monument to this deforestation is really a bit much for me.  How can we be proud of such a thing?

 

 

32 comments:

  1. Sherry, you & David are in our neck of the woods. We have property just a stones throw from Hartwick Pines. It's a great park for hiking. If you'll be in the sera for awhile, be sure to visit the town of Gaylord. Gobbler's is a good place to eat while there. Also a day trip to Traverse City to visit Old Mission Peninsula, the lighthouse & Old Mission General Store. For good food in TC, try Sleder's & Don's Drive-In has delicious cherry malts & shakes. Are you going up into the Upper? The Yooper as it's affectionately called is truly God's Country.

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    1. Can't thank you enough for these suggestions. The one problem with being behind in my blog is that folks suggest things for places I have left and thus we missed Gobbler's. BUT we won't miss the Traverse City suggestions. We are going to Yooper. Tahquamenon Falls is next and then Pictured Rocks. Any more suggestions gratefully accepted.

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  2. Hartwick is one of our favorite places. We frequently stop there on our way to and from the UP. The walk you took is also one of our favorites, I know what you mean about receiving energy from the trees and the little chapel is very relaxing and often used for weddings. The logging museum is interesting as it looks at the lives of the people during that time. Hope you have a great stay and enjoy the UP. We like Union Bay Campground at Porcupine Mtn State Preserve on the far end of the UP. We have also stayed at Muskellonge State Park north of Newberry, it is nice also.

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    1. Porcupine Mountain is also on our list. We'll look into Muskellonge if we have time. Thanks so much for the suggestions.

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  3. Now I'm really going to be envying you if you get to see a Kirtland's warbler. I just wish Michigan had more National Wildlife Refuges. I'd volunteer there in a minute! I ordered a Thermacell today. Going to see how that helps with the mosquitoes. I'm thinking the mosquito season won't end in the deep woods until the first frost...

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    1. Judy, we purchased a Thermacell at Walmart the other day. . .it does seem to help. . .hope it wasn't just a fluke. . .they are intolerable here in Wisconsin as well. . .

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  4. As I was walking today, I was the main course for the mosquitoes. Boy, oh boy, they grow them ferocious here in Michigan. Would love to see those trees. Probably, next year when we are back visiting our friends.

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    1. A spray with at least 40% Deet is best in Northern Michigan.

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    2. mosquitoes 'bout carried us away in Michigan, and they are just as thick here in Wisconsin. . .I have broken out the mosquito spray. . .haven't used it yet. . .but I"m sure I will have to. . .ugh!

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  5. Love the trees- they are really tall! It's amazing to think of trees being hundreds of years old. I would think that pines wouldn't last hundred of years because they are more fragile than other trees. Too bad about the annoying mosquitos- bbbbzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!
    XXXOOO

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  6. You made me laugh with your "monument" comment. Oh, heavens, we do love our monuments to all kinds of things. Sorry about the mosquitoes (I'm pretty sure that I will never go to Michigan if they are that bad -- mosquitoes love me), but it certainly is a beautiful place.

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  7. Hope y'all enjoy Michigan. I've been in that area quite often. Kens family had a cabin near there. I read that if you put a dryer sheet on your person it will keep mosquitoes away. Don't know if it will work but thought I would mention it! Enjoy those trees!!!

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  8. When I lived in IL, Michigan was a favorite vacation place. I think the skeeters will be around all summer.

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  9. I love to walk through forests, especially when there aren't many people about. It seems like the trees absorb all our cares and worries, along with carbon dioxide.

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  10. Uh-oh, it sounds like the mosquitoes have found you. Darn! I was hoping that somehow magically you were going to escape them. Your hike in the tall trees was gorgeous, though, and I really liked that pretty little chapel in the woods. We're currently in Bryce Canyon -- no bugs. I am SO happy with no bugs, even though I know the birds we love so much need bugs for food.

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  11. I love our tall fir trees in Western Oregon and Washington

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  12. Mosquito season? Pretty much spring through frost . . . especially bad if it's a wet year! We have one of those old family photos in front of that tree, when I was young!

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  13. Boy oh boy... you two have sure beat a track to Northern Michigan!!! Hope this puts you back on schedule so you can relax and enjoy that beautiful country. My those trees are gorgeous!!! You are missing out on the 90 degree weather down here;o(( Keep sending those COOL photos our way:o)

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  14. We are one of those usually up and on the road, if possible we like to be where we are going in time for lunch. Another beautiful state park, I can see a visit to MI is in our future. Mosquitoes are getting bad here too, hope they go away soon. Hopefully you can get back on schedule soon and slow down, now you're wearing me out.

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  15. Yep. Mosquitoes are terrible all summer long up north. I think July was the worst when we were there. Sorry they are taking away from your wonderful explorations of that terrific area.

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  16. You should invest in a bug jacket. A lot of people wear them up here. The mosq. only get bigger the farther North you go. After them come the black flies. They will drive you crazy! It would be a good investment if you like the woods.

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  17. Hmm, mosquitoes aren't my favorite 'bird'. Have to stay clear of Michigan in the summer I think. Maybe fall is better?

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  18. How mysterious and powerful are those woods...! Such tall & mighty trees. So glad that land was 'saved'! I'd love to experience that without the moscitos!!

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  19. Hate to hear that about the mosquitoes. That's why Jim has no interest in going to Michigan. Will be interested to see what the ranger tells you.

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  20. What a beautiful location, if it weren't for the mosquitoes!! Bring in the bats!

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  21. So lovely. Although the mosquitoes are definitely not a favorite thing for me either, and we have them here in Rocky Point as well. When I took photos of the lovely campsite at Malone Spring yesterday, I thought of you two. It looked like a Sherry and David kind of place, and you two are just hardy enough that you would endure the mosquitoes is need be in order to kayak that gorgeous refuge! As I said, once out on the water there are no mosquitoes!

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  22. Skeeters, I thought they only loved me! ;c)

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  23. was wondering how you had escaped the mosquitoes on your kayak venture. . .I see they found ya. . .sorry!

    I love the woods too. . .not quite as passionate about trees as you are. . .find logging to be a necessity of life, but not clear cutting just for the sake of cutting. . .some things need to be managed and preserved. . .great post!

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  24. What a sweet little chapel. Love your first photo of the trees. Looks like they reach up and up and up into the sky forever.

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  25. glad your enjoying michigan, and yes you need to carry Off spray everywhere, even here in Ohio....Kris

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  26. Gave you a shout out on my post today! I apply the avoidance technique for mosquitos, stay away from the boggy spots when you're in the U.P. and get back to camp before evening and you should be fine. The closer you stick to the shoreline of Lake Superior the better off you'll be.

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